Step by step instructions to Get a Smooth Polyurethane Finish

Presentation

These tips and methods for applying oil-based polyurethane produce basically immaculate outcomes. They incorporate utilizing a roller, utilizing wipe-on poly, or more all-controlling residue.

Instruments Required

  • Orbital sander
  • Paint roller

Materials Required

  • 6-mil plastic sheeting
  • Mineral spirits
  • Polyurethane
  • Sandpaper
  • Manufactured sanding cushions
  • Wipe-on polyurethane

Beginning

Despite the fact that I’ve fabricated many cupboards and furniture pieces, I don’t view myself as a top-of-the-line finisher. Yet, I’ve built up my own little assortment of tips, frameworks, and methods for applying oil-based polyurethane. It gives me incredible outcomes, rapidly and effortlessly. This is a skip-the-brush framework. It’s tied in with moving poly on the enormous zones, utilizing wipe-on poly on the little ones, or more all, controlling residue. I’ll show you the tips I utilized while I was completing my most recent task, a level screen TV stand.

How To Get A Smooth Polyurethane Finish Task bit by bit (8)

Stage 1 Sand Out Pencil Marks

Start by drawing light, squiggly pencil lines on a superficial level at each coarseness stage. At the point when the pencil lines vanish, you’re prepared to proceed onward to the following coarseness.

Genius Tip: You’re burning through your time sanding coarse, open-grained woods like debris or oak child butt smooth. I by and large beginning at 80 coarseness and end with 100 or 120 coarseness. Sanding through every one of the cornmeal to 220 coarseness will not improve the completion the slightest bit. Yet, with shut-grained woods like maple or birch, don’t avoid any coarseness steps, and go right to 220 coarseness.

Stage 2 Keep a Clean Work Area

A perfect work territory is critical. The more residue-free the task and the encompassing surfaces, the less work you’ll have and the more faultless your completion will be.

Professional Tip: Before completing beginnings, I vacuum the venture, the workbench and the floor.

Under the piece to be done, I spread out 6-mil poly to shield the floor from dribbles and spills and make cleanup simple. I’ll reuse these sheets a few times, at that point throw them.

Star Tip: Don’t complete around the same time you sand; the residue remains noticeable all around for quite a long time. Begin getting done with clean garments and hair.

Stage 3 Wipe the Project With Mineral Spirits

Wipe down the venture with a tack material, or a build up free fabric immersed with dissolvable.

Note: I like to utilize an old, clean cotton T-shirt for this and the wipe-on advance shown later. This progression eliminates essentially all hints of residue. It just requires a couple of moments for the dissolvable to dissipate so you can begin on wrapping up.

Star Tip: Don’t utilize water; it’ll raise the grain and you’ll need to sand once more.

Stage 4 Utilize a Roller on Large, Flat Surfaces

A 6-in. roller allows you to apply the poly quickly and equally. No brushstrokes, puddles or slight spots.

Note: I like to utilize 6-in. microfiber rollers hosed with mineral spirits. There’s consistently a touch of extra build-up, yet just on the main coat. A Teflon preparing plate makes an incredible moving container.

Try not to go ballistic when you see the completion just after you lay it down. It’ll resemble it’s loaded with blemishes. Simply carry it out and utilize the raking light to ensure the surface is totally covered.

Master Tip: Don’t continue to work on the completion. Leave it alone, and it will smooth out. I keep a jar of splash poly convenient in the event of air pockets. A light fog takes them out.

After each coat, re-dunk the roller in mineral spirits and put it into a zippered plastic sack for the following coat, and leave the wet plate to dry. Several hours, the dried poly strips directly out of the container. I’ll ordinarily put two coats on bureau insides and sides, and three coats on tabletops for additional assurance.

Stage 5 Finish Both Sides at Once

With a strong wood top like this one, finish both the top and the base surfaces, regardless of whether the base will not show.

Cautioning: Skip this progression and the top can wind, cup or twist.

To save drying time, coat the base and afterward quickly flip it over to complete the top.

Note: I simply couldn’t care less if there are a couple of fingerprints. Just after the top is carried out, I roll the edges and afterward circumvent them with a dry froth brush to dispose of any dribbles or thick spots. I avoid the last coat on the underside. Being short a solitary coat on the underside is definitely not a serious deal.

Stage 6 Use Wipe-On Poly for Small or Tight Areas

After the move-on coats is dry, I use Minwax wipe on poly (utilize a similar sheen you decided for the move-on poly) for the face outlines, legs, entryways or some other limited, little or complex regions.

I do this after the enormous zones are dry so I don’t smirch contiguous territories. I like it in light of the fact that solitary two things get messy: a glove and a cotton cloth, the two of which I throw after each coat.

Note: I can put on two to four layers of wipe on poly in one day relying upon the temperature and dampness. There are no dribbles, droops or runs — ever. Furthermore, in light of the fact that Minwax wipe on poly dries so quick, there’s once in a while a residue issue.

Professional Tip: The disadvantage to Minwax wipe on poly? Since the coats are so slender, you need bunches of them. I’ll put on upwards of eight layers of Minwax wipe on poly when two moved coats would get the job done.

Stage 7 Daintily Sand With Pads and Paper

I daintily sand between covers with extra-fine engineered sanding cushions. The objective is to roughen the surface a piece and wipe out dust bits, hairs and dribbles.

Genius Tip: If there are obstinate nibs that face the cushions, snatch 280-coarseness and be more forceful. At that point simply clear off the residue with mineral spirits and apply another coat.

Stage 8 Allow the Final Coat To dry in a Dust-Free Area

  • For the last coat, I vacuum the work region again and let the residue settle for the time being.
  • Professional Tip: In the colder time of year, I warm the room and afterward turn off the overhead two or three hours prior to completing to settle any residue.

After the completion is on, I promptly fold little workpieces into my shop restroom, which is almost dust-free. In the event that it’s cool in the washroom, I utilize an electric space radiator to accelerate the drying. On the off chance that it’s a major task, I make a drying corner out of 6-mil poly sheeting first, which almost disposes of residue spots.